Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Friday, May 21
set the table
Time to try something new on my serger - a rolled hem! It took no time at all - setting it up and reading my booklet to make sure I had the settings right was the hardest part.
Each napkin is 18" square which made four from one yard of fabric. I used two different kinds of lighthouse fabrics, so I made a total of eight napkins. That left a few lighthouse scraps to use on a centerpiece for the table. Don't you love the salt and pepper shakers?!
My parents also get two placemats to match out of a simple red broadcloth. Enjoy, mom & dad!
threads...
decorating,
gear,
serger,
tutorial
Tuesday, March 16
little girl's play purse - tutorial!!!
You remember the Tinkerbell purse? My niece (and her sister and mom!) loved it.
It seems you all loved it too - so here's your tutorial!!!!!
Gather your supplies:
-2 fabrics (fat quarters or even smaller)
-trims - ric rac, eyelet, lace, twill tape, ribbon
-thread
-rotary cutter & mat
-ruler
-iron
-pins
Cut your 2 fabrics (outside & lining) into rectangles 18" x 10".
Cut your main fabric into 4 rectangles size 12" x 2.5".
Lay them out and make sure you still like them. Fold the lining piece and lay it on top -- looks so pretty, eh?
Take two strap pieces, lay them right sides together, and sew three sides (two long, one short) using a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim the corners, flip the straps right side out, and press.
Then topstitch & add trims to the strap if you so desire.
Take your outside fabric and fold it in half, right sides together. Sew up both sides using a 1/2" seam allowance.
Do the same with the lining fabric.
Pick up your outside fabric, and fold the side seam up to meet the bottom fold. Right side of the fabric is on the inside.
Measure down 1-1/2" and stitch straight across. (The pins are at the 2" mark, but I decided that was a bit too big for me.) Do that again on the opposite end. After you've stitched the ends, flip it open, make sure you like how it looks. Flip it inside out again and trim the extra fabric triangle.
Then repeat on the lining fabric.
Open up the outer fabric right side out, and open the lining fabric up with the wrong side out. Stuff the lining fabric inside the outer fabric. Pin & baste the top edge.
Fold over the top of the lining fabric about 1-1/2" and iron. Stitch it into place.
Then line up the straps about 1-1/2" from each side. Pin in place, and stitch along the bottom edge of the lining.
Add your trims along the edge of the lining. Layer, topstitch, decorate as desired!
Now give it to your favorite toddler & enjoy them toting it everywhere!
The greatest part is that there are so many great trims out there and tons of cute fabrics. You can widen or lengthen the straps & change the size of the purse to fit your needs (or the size of the scrap fabric you have).
If you have any questions, just let me know...and if you make one, I'd love to see it - please send a picture!
It seems you all loved it too - so here's your tutorial!!!!!Gather your supplies:
-2 fabrics (fat quarters or even smaller)
-trims - ric rac, eyelet, lace, twill tape, ribbon
-thread
-rotary cutter & mat
-ruler
-iron
-pins
Cut your 2 fabrics (outside & lining) into rectangles 18" x 10".
Cut your main fabric into 4 rectangles size 12" x 2.5".
Lay them out and make sure you still like them. Fold the lining piece and lay it on top -- looks so pretty, eh?
Take two strap pieces, lay them right sides together, and sew three sides (two long, one short) using a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim the corners, flip the straps right side out, and press.
Then topstitch & add trims to the strap if you so desire.
Take your outside fabric and fold it in half, right sides together. Sew up both sides using a 1/2" seam allowance.
Do the same with the lining fabric.
Pick up your outside fabric, and fold the side seam up to meet the bottom fold. Right side of the fabric is on the inside.
Measure down 1-1/2" and stitch straight across. (The pins are at the 2" mark, but I decided that was a bit too big for me.) Do that again on the opposite end. After you've stitched the ends, flip it open, make sure you like how it looks. Flip it inside out again and trim the extra fabric triangle.
Then repeat on the lining fabric.
Open up the outer fabric right side out, and open the lining fabric up with the wrong side out. Stuff the lining fabric inside the outer fabric. Pin & baste the top edge.
Fold over the top of the lining fabric about 1-1/2" and iron. Stitch it into place.
Then line up the straps about 1-1/2" from each side. Pin in place, and stitch along the bottom edge of the lining.
Add your trims along the edge of the lining. Layer, topstitch, decorate as desired!
Now give it to your favorite toddler & enjoy them toting it everywhere!
The greatest part is that there are so many great trims out there and tons of cute fabrics. You can widen or lengthen the straps & change the size of the purse to fit your needs (or the size of the scrap fabric you have).
If you have any questions, just let me know...and if you make one, I'd love to see it - please send a picture!
Saturday, August 1
good night sleep tight
I made something special for my husband's birthday... a silhouette pillowcase. He's been needing a new pillow for a while, so I decided to do something fun to go with it. We have a ton of extra pillowcases, so I just used one of them and some fabric from my stash. No cost - - - even better!
I'm sure there's other silhouette pillow tutorials out there, but I figured I'd just show you how I did mine.
1. Take a picture of your kids' profile. And then when your 15 month old doesn't want to cooperate, just PRAY that you have one of your wriggly sweetheart somewhere that shows her profile and just go with that. I cropped it and printed it as an 8x10. I wasn't going for a fancy picture, so I just did it on regular paper in black and white. Then I trimmed around his profile.
2. If you care which way the silhouette will be facing, then flip accordingly. I then put it under my Wonder Under and traced.
3. Iron the Wonder Under to the fabric he chose. (clouds for him, water for Abby. don't ask me why, it's just what I get for letting him choose.)
5. Cut out their silhouettes and iron to the pillowcase. I wasn't really thinking about it at the time, but realized later that depending on how thick a pillow you have, and how long you cut their necks out, you might not want to put their faces so close to the seam.
6. Pause for a moment to adore their cute little silhouettes. Maybe wish that you had proportioned them a little better. Sigh and move on.
7. Zig zag around all their hair spikes, cute little lips, noses, and chins.
8. This was just my special added touch. We always say "Good night, sleep tight, don't let the bed bugs bite, see you in the morning light when the sun is bright, right?" as our funny good night to each other. So I added it to the pillow. You could really freehand anything, write with a fabric marker, leave it plain, or whatever.
You're done!!! Good night, sleep tight!
There's so many other cute ways you could do it that I was thinking of as I was sewing...
For a kid to take to camp (silhouette of you? pet? house? whatever they will miss!)
Of a mom/dad who is deployed - that way the kid can always "kiss them goodnight"
Grandma/ Grandpa?
There's other variations too, because there's that cool fabric you send through your printer, so the options are really endless. It doesn't have to be silhouettes, it can be real pictures.
I'm sure there's other silhouette pillow tutorials out there, but I figured I'd just show you how I did mine.
1. Take a picture of your kids' profile. And then when your 15 month old doesn't want to cooperate, just PRAY that you have one of your wriggly sweetheart somewhere that shows her profile and just go with that. I cropped it and printed it as an 8x10. I wasn't going for a fancy picture, so I just did it on regular paper in black and white. Then I trimmed around his profile.
2. If you care which way the silhouette will be facing, then flip accordingly. I then put it under my Wonder Under and traced.
3. Iron the Wonder Under to the fabric he chose. (clouds for him, water for Abby. don't ask me why, it's just what I get for letting him choose.)
5. Cut out their silhouettes and iron to the pillowcase. I wasn't really thinking about it at the time, but realized later that depending on how thick a pillow you have, and how long you cut their necks out, you might not want to put their faces so close to the seam.
6. Pause for a moment to adore their cute little silhouettes. Maybe wish that you had proportioned them a little better. Sigh and move on.
7. Zig zag around all their hair spikes, cute little lips, noses, and chins.
8. This was just my special added touch. We always say "Good night, sleep tight, don't let the bed bugs bite, see you in the morning light when the sun is bright, right?" as our funny good night to each other. So I added it to the pillow. You could really freehand anything, write with a fabric marker, leave it plain, or whatever.
You're done!!! Good night, sleep tight!
There's so many other cute ways you could do it that I was thinking of as I was sewing...For a kid to take to camp (silhouette of you? pet? house? whatever they will miss!)
Of a mom/dad who is deployed - that way the kid can always "kiss them goodnight"
Grandma/ Grandpa?
There's other variations too, because there's that cool fabric you send through your printer, so the options are really endless. It doesn't have to be silhouettes, it can be real pictures.
Tuesday, July 14
how to make a onesie dress, part 2
HOW TO MAKE A ONESIE DRESS, PART 2
(go back a day for the first bunch of directions)
After you've pieced the skirt, the next step is gathering/ ruffling/ getting the skirt part ready to attach.
If you have a ruffler – have fun. Play with your settings and make sure it’s going to ruffle it as much as you want it to.
If you don’t have a ruffler, do the two rows of stitching and gather the fabric up.
In other words – gather however you gather!!!
Remember that original width of the onesie? It doesn’t have to exactly match up, because you’ll want some give when you’re pulling this over the baby’s head. Just don’t make it too small!
Once all your gathering is done, sew up the last side seam.
Then do your hem however you want to do hems – I have a rolled hem foot I use. You can also do the fold ¼”, iron, fold ¼”, sew method.
Feel free to add another ruffled layer on the bottom. I usually take the width of the fabric strip I made, double it, and cut a 1-1/2" ruffle. I’m not going to write out all the math for that. If you need help, just email me.
So - at this point you will have a very basic looking skirt with a raw top edge (where you gathered).
Lay the onesie out and draw a line across the lower middle of the onesie. (Use a marking pencil, use a washable marker – whatever is easiest for you.)
Remember that the diaper actually comes up pretty high, so if you do a line across about 2/3 of the way down from the top, that will work out. If you do it too low, the skirt will hang too low and look funny.
Open up the onesie snaps. Put the right side of the skirt to the right side of the onesie. Match up side seams, and pin a few times in the middle. The raw edge of the skirt should be lining up along that line you drew. The snaps should be showing, and the hem of the skirt should be up near the neckline of the onesie. That way when you’re done sewing, you’ll just flip it down and be done!
The first few onesie dresses I did I used a straight stitch, and then got frustrated when the stitches pulled when I put it on my daughter. I decided to try a zig zag stitch and have been happier with the results.
So – zig zag stitch your skirt to your onesie. Pull the onesie so it’s stretched out a little as you’re sewing. Like I’ve said before – you have to remember how much it stretches to get over those shoulders!! You just don't want it too small!
Zig zag around twice if you’re really worried about frayed edges or something coming undone. I’ve never had a problem with just once around.
Flip the skirt down and you’re done!!!
Some people attach a little ribbon around the front, and leave it lose on the back to allow for stretching and gathering and tying. I think that's more important on a tshirt, because those have a tendency to be looser than onesies.
Almost done. That onesie top looks pretty plain now, doesn’t it? Use a few scraps and appliqué something cute on there… initial, shape – whatever will go well with the skirt!
And voila – a perfect finished outfit. Diaper cover, done. Shirt, tucked in. Adorable – you betcha!
I know it looks like a lot of steps, but it’s so fun and easy – and pretty addicting!!! Please let me know if you make one – leave a link in the comments so we can see your creation!
If you need help with any of the steps, just ask!
(go back a day for the first bunch of directions)
After you've pieced the skirt, the next step is gathering/ ruffling/ getting the skirt part ready to attach.
If you have a ruffler – have fun. Play with your settings and make sure it’s going to ruffle it as much as you want it to.
If you don’t have a ruffler, do the two rows of stitching and gather the fabric up.
In other words – gather however you gather!!!
Remember that original width of the onesie? It doesn’t have to exactly match up, because you’ll want some give when you’re pulling this over the baby’s head. Just don’t make it too small!
Once all your gathering is done, sew up the last side seam.
Then do your hem however you want to do hems – I have a rolled hem foot I use. You can also do the fold ¼”, iron, fold ¼”, sew method.
Feel free to add another ruffled layer on the bottom. I usually take the width of the fabric strip I made, double it, and cut a 1-1/2" ruffle. I’m not going to write out all the math for that. If you need help, just email me.
So - at this point you will have a very basic looking skirt with a raw top edge (where you gathered).Lay the onesie out and draw a line across the lower middle of the onesie. (Use a marking pencil, use a washable marker – whatever is easiest for you.)
Remember that the diaper actually comes up pretty high, so if you do a line across about 2/3 of the way down from the top, that will work out. If you do it too low, the skirt will hang too low and look funny.
Open up the onesie snaps. Put the right side of the skirt to the right side of the onesie. Match up side seams, and pin a few times in the middle. The raw edge of the skirt should be lining up along that line you drew. The snaps should be showing, and the hem of the skirt should be up near the neckline of the onesie. That way when you’re done sewing, you’ll just flip it down and be done!
The first few onesie dresses I did I used a straight stitch, and then got frustrated when the stitches pulled when I put it on my daughter. I decided to try a zig zag stitch and have been happier with the results.
So – zig zag stitch your skirt to your onesie. Pull the onesie so it’s stretched out a little as you’re sewing. Like I’ve said before – you have to remember how much it stretches to get over those shoulders!! You just don't want it too small!
Zig zag around twice if you’re really worried about frayed edges or something coming undone. I’ve never had a problem with just once around.
Flip the skirt down and you’re done!!!
Some people attach a little ribbon around the front, and leave it lose on the back to allow for stretching and gathering and tying. I think that's more important on a tshirt, because those have a tendency to be looser than onesies.
Almost done. That onesie top looks pretty plain now, doesn’t it? Use a few scraps and appliqué something cute on there… initial, shape – whatever will go well with the skirt!And voila – a perfect finished outfit. Diaper cover, done. Shirt, tucked in. Adorable – you betcha!
I know it looks like a lot of steps, but it’s so fun and easy – and pretty addicting!!! Please let me know if you make one – leave a link in the comments so we can see your creation!
If you need help with any of the steps, just ask!
Monday, July 13
how to make a onesie dress, part 1
I decided to split the tutorial up over a couple of days. Maybe I'm just too wordy :) but it's really long if I do it all at once.
Plus, I'm going on vacation and wanted you all to have something to do while I'm gone!
SUPPLIES needed:
thread
rotary cutter
ruler
marking pencil or washable marker
onesie
fabric - 1 fat quarter, or a mixture of fun fabrics
thread to match
any other embellishments you may want to add at the end (buttons, applique, ribbons, etc.)
HOW TO MAKE A ONESIE DRESS
Measure the width of the front of the onesie. (Usually 8-12” depending on the size of onesie.)
Double that.
That is how wide a piece of fabric you will need for the front.
If you want a REALLY full skirt, triple that measurement. The wider the strip of fabric, the fuller the skirt!
Then decide how long you want the skirt to be. Here are my suggestions:
Up to 6 mo – no more than 8 inches
Up to 24 mo – no more than 9 inches
(If they're crawling, keep it on the shorter side!)
If you’re doing a tshirt dress, it all depends on the length of t-shirt, size of kid, etc. – but I would say probably stick around the 10-11” length
This is a perfect for using up fat quarters!
If you want an extra ruffle at the bottom, make the initial skirt piece of fabric an inch or two shorter to account for the addition of the ruffle.
If you just want to use one piece of fabric for the whole skirt, cut your front and back sections according to your measurements.
For example...
9" wide onesie
8" long skirt
You will need 2 pieces 18.5" x 8.5", or one piece 36.5" x 8.5"
(See what I mean? perfect for using up a fat quarter!)
If you cut two pieces from a fat quarter, sew them together to make a really long 8.5" strip.
Then you can set your fabric aside and wait until tomorrow.
If you want a pieced skirt, then read on… it’s time to do more math…
PIECED SKIRT INSTRUCTIONS...
So – you want to have probably one big fun design in the middle, and a few colorful strips to match on either side. For example, in the 4th of July dress, I had one stars and stripe fabric in the middle, and 3 strips of solid/star fabric on each side – for a total of 7 pieces of fabric.
For the cupcake dress, I have one cupcake piece in the middle, and 4 fabrics on each side – for a total of 9 pieces of fabric. Here I am trying out a couple different fabrics on the side, and for a ruffle. Lay your stuff and decide what you want!
Here’s an example of my math for the cupcake dress…
T-shirt width – 14”
Total front width needed – 28”
Cupcake fabric – 20” wide
Pink – 2” wide
Yellow – 2” wide
Green – 2” wide
Purple – 2” wide
Length of skirt before adding ruffle - 9" long
Add ¼” seam allowances and this is what I cut…
Cupcake fabric – 20.5” x 9.5”
Each colored strip – 2.5” x 9.5”
I cut two cupcake pieces – one for front and back.
I cut 4 of the colored strips – one for left side, one for right – on front and back.
Using all those measurements, get to your cutting board!
REMEMBER TO CUT 2 of EVERYTHING!!! You have to make a back to this skirt too!!!!
When all your pieces have been cut, lay them out in the order you want them sewn together. Sew & zigzag, overcast, serge – however you stitch them together – do it now. Feel free to press the seams when you’re done.
Do that twice, once for the front panel and once for the back panel.
Sew the left side of the back panel to the right side of the front panel, with right sides of fabric together. You should now have a REALLY long strip of fabrics.
Take a deep breath, set it aside, and come back for the second half of the instructions tomorrow.
If the math part was totally confusing, email me your questions and I'll try and help you out!!!
Plus, I'm going on vacation and wanted you all to have something to do while I'm gone!
SUPPLIES needed:
thread
rotary cutter
ruler
marking pencil or washable marker
onesie
fabric - 1 fat quarter, or a mixture of fun fabrics
thread to match
any other embellishments you may want to add at the end (buttons, applique, ribbons, etc.)
HOW TO MAKE A ONESIE DRESS
Measure the width of the front of the onesie. (Usually 8-12” depending on the size of onesie.)
Double that.
That is how wide a piece of fabric you will need for the front.
If you want a REALLY full skirt, triple that measurement. The wider the strip of fabric, the fuller the skirt!
Then decide how long you want the skirt to be. Here are my suggestions:
Up to 6 mo – no more than 8 inches
Up to 24 mo – no more than 9 inches
(If they're crawling, keep it on the shorter side!)
If you’re doing a tshirt dress, it all depends on the length of t-shirt, size of kid, etc. – but I would say probably stick around the 10-11” length
This is a perfect for using up fat quarters!
If you want an extra ruffle at the bottom, make the initial skirt piece of fabric an inch or two shorter to account for the addition of the ruffle.
If you just want to use one piece of fabric for the whole skirt, cut your front and back sections according to your measurements.
For example...
9" wide onesie
8" long skirt
You will need 2 pieces 18.5" x 8.5", or one piece 36.5" x 8.5"
(See what I mean? perfect for using up a fat quarter!)
If you cut two pieces from a fat quarter, sew them together to make a really long 8.5" strip.
Then you can set your fabric aside and wait until tomorrow.
If you want a pieced skirt, then read on… it’s time to do more math…
PIECED SKIRT INSTRUCTIONS...
So – you want to have probably one big fun design in the middle, and a few colorful strips to match on either side. For example, in the 4th of July dress, I had one stars and stripe fabric in the middle, and 3 strips of solid/star fabric on each side – for a total of 7 pieces of fabric.
For the cupcake dress, I have one cupcake piece in the middle, and 4 fabrics on each side – for a total of 9 pieces of fabric. Here I am trying out a couple different fabrics on the side, and for a ruffle. Lay your stuff and decide what you want!
Here’s an example of my math for the cupcake dress…
T-shirt width – 14”
Total front width needed – 28”
Cupcake fabric – 20” wide
Pink – 2” wide
Yellow – 2” wide
Green – 2” wide
Purple – 2” wide
Length of skirt before adding ruffle - 9" long
Add ¼” seam allowances and this is what I cut…
Cupcake fabric – 20.5” x 9.5”
Each colored strip – 2.5” x 9.5”
I cut two cupcake pieces – one for front and back.
I cut 4 of the colored strips – one for left side, one for right – on front and back.
Using all those measurements, get to your cutting board!
REMEMBER TO CUT 2 of EVERYTHING!!! You have to make a back to this skirt too!!!!
When all your pieces have been cut, lay them out in the order you want them sewn together. Sew & zigzag, overcast, serge – however you stitch them together – do it now. Feel free to press the seams when you’re done.
Do that twice, once for the front panel and once for the back panel.
Sew the left side of the back panel to the right side of the front panel, with right sides of fabric together. You should now have a REALLY long strip of fabrics.
Take a deep breath, set it aside, and come back for the second half of the instructions tomorrow.
If the math part was totally confusing, email me your questions and I'll try and help you out!!!
Monday, May 25
finishing up the dresses! (x4)
Well - unfortunately, most of my pictures were fuzzy. Ah well. You'll get the idea.
So - the dress is done, time to do the finishing touches. You marked the buttonholes, right? Time to get to it then. My sewing machine is (thankfully) pretty automated about the whole thing. Good luck if yours isn't. I've never really done them manually, so don't have any tips. Sorry. One tip - I usually do it on a scrap fabric first, and try buttoning the button (still on the card) through the hole. I just want to make sure it's the right size before I do it on the real fabric.
Then it's time to open up those buttonholes. One thing a seam ripper is good for that isn't frustrating! (unless you go too far....)
Then of course, time for the buttons (you marked them right?) - if not, line up the buttonholes and mark through the holes.
And I've finally got four beautiful daisy dresses...
all lined up and ready for four cute little girls!!!
(amazing photo shoot coming soon, I hope!)
So - the dress is done, time to do the finishing touches. You marked the buttonholes, right? Time to get to it then. My sewing machine is (thankfully) pretty automated about the whole thing. Good luck if yours isn't. I've never really done them manually, so don't have any tips. Sorry. One tip - I usually do it on a scrap fabric first, and try buttoning the button (still on the card) through the hole. I just want to make sure it's the right size before I do it on the real fabric.
Then it's time to open up those buttonholes. One thing a seam ripper is good for that isn't frustrating! (unless you go too far....)
Then of course, time for the buttons (you marked them right?) - if not, line up the buttonholes and mark through the holes.And I've finally got four beautiful daisy dresses...
all lined up and ready for four cute little girls!!!
(amazing photo shoot coming soon, I hope!)
threads...
clothing,
pattern tutorial,
sewing,
tutorial
Thursday, May 21
making it, sewing it
TIME TO SEW! My favorite part! I'm actually going to make four jumpers, different sizes and different colors. It's taken me a while to get them all cut & marked. But I'm ready to go and excited to see how they turn out!
Staystitching... just stitching, closer to the edge than the seam allowance. Don't ask me why they don't just say "stitch here".
Press seams open - it lays nice and flat and doesn't bulk up the seams. Quite an adjustment for me as opposed to quilting.
Pin - it really does help. I have spent years trying to avoid it, but it all comes down to this - it is straighter, neater, and I am more pleased with the end result when I pin. (oh, how I hate to admit it.)
Trim seams - why do they make us? Why don't they just make a smaller seam allowance? I DON'T KNOW! (yes this is me sitting at my sewing table with the fabric falling off my lap. Sometimes I trim by the t.v.)
Clip & flip - SO helpful to clip the curves when you flip it and press it. It decreases bulk (as if trimming the seams wasn't enough?) and make the fabric actually curve when/where you want it to. Just don't trim the seam you just stitched. Better not to clip in low light or late at night, I have found. just sayin'. :) Whether you clip actual wedges or just slits - I see it as a matter of personal preference. This is my favorite tool for flipping - it helps smooth the edges and can be shoved into skinny places. Some people use chopsticks. There's a variety of options out there, just find something that works for you!
Time to press - ahhh... you're starting to see results now. YAY! Sometimes the pattern calls for "topstitching" - the really close to the edge stitching. It helps keep facing from flipping inside out, or just kind of adds a finished detail. In these dresses I'm not going to do it, but it can be a nice touch.
We'll add the finishing touches (buttons!) in a couple of days. (Remember, I'm doing 4 of these dresses, folks!)
Staystitching... just stitching, closer to the edge than the seam allowance. Don't ask me why they don't just say "stitch here".
Press seams open - it lays nice and flat and doesn't bulk up the seams. Quite an adjustment for me as opposed to quilting.
Pin - it really does help. I have spent years trying to avoid it, but it all comes down to this - it is straighter, neater, and I am more pleased with the end result when I pin. (oh, how I hate to admit it.)
Trim seams - why do they make us? Why don't they just make a smaller seam allowance? I DON'T KNOW! (yes this is me sitting at my sewing table with the fabric falling off my lap. Sometimes I trim by the t.v.)
Clip & flip - SO helpful to clip the curves when you flip it and press it. It decreases bulk (as if trimming the seams wasn't enough?) and make the fabric actually curve when/where you want it to. Just don't trim the seam you just stitched. Better not to clip in low light or late at night, I have found. just sayin'. :) Whether you clip actual wedges or just slits - I see it as a matter of personal preference. This is my favorite tool for flipping - it helps smooth the edges and can be shoved into skinny places. Some people use chopsticks. There's a variety of options out there, just find something that works for you!
Time to press - ahhh... you're starting to see results now. YAY! Sometimes the pattern calls for "topstitching" - the really close to the edge stitching. It helps keep facing from flipping inside out, or just kind of adds a finished detail. In these dresses I'm not going to do it, but it can be a nice touch.
We'll add the finishing touches (buttons!) in a couple of days. (Remember, I'm doing 4 of these dresses, folks!)
threads...
clothing,
pattern tutorial,
sewing,
tutorial
Saturday, May 16
marking and making
You thought it was time to sew, right? Sorry, one more little step first. Time to check your markings. Trust me, it's easier now!
First - Check and make sure you've snipped all the triangle spots.
Second - Check for buttonholes. Use a pencil, pen, or special marking pencil. Put the dots where they tell you to.
Third - are there any fold lines, hem lines, or any other special points to match up? Best to check now. Trust me, I've tried to go back later and it's easier now!!!
Just a couple more tips before we start sewing...
* Read through the directions. Even if you're confused, read through it all.
* Look through all your notions again... won't it be pretty once it's all put together?
We'll be starting our sewing in a couple of days. Don't be afraid. It'll be fun!
First - Check and make sure you've snipped all the triangle spots.
Second - Check for buttonholes. Use a pencil, pen, or special marking pencil. Put the dots where they tell you to.
Third - are there any fold lines, hem lines, or any other special points to match up? Best to check now. Trust me, I've tried to go back later and it's easier now!!!Just a couple more tips before we start sewing...
* Read through the directions. Even if you're confused, read through it all.
* Look through all your notions again... won't it be pretty once it's all put together?
We'll be starting our sewing in a couple of days. Don't be afraid. It'll be fun!
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Tuesday, May 12
layout and cutout
Now you're home and you have your pattern, your fabric, your notions, and the overwhelming urge to go eat chocolate. (go ahead, I'll still be here.)
Cutting is probably my least favorite part. So let's buzz through it fast and get to the rest of the fun stuff!!! (Cutting quilts is fun for me, cutting patterns for clothes - not so much.)
Get out all your supplies - fabric, pins, pattern pieces, and a good pair of scissors. I've heard that some people use a rotary cutter. I'll explain later why I still use scissors.
How do you know which pattern pieces to use? Well - you open up the pattern of course. There should be a place that shows all the different pattern pieces included in the envelope. Remember how you picked a "view" that you're going to sew? ("dress A") Find that listing, and notice all the pieces that go with it.
Then sort through all the flimsy pattern papers and get the pieces you need. In this particular pattern, some of the pieces are for all sizes, some pieces are for specific sizes. So READ carefully! I then cut out the pieces I'll need and try to fold the rest of the pattern papers back up and shove them in the envelope. That way I don't get (as) confused about which pieces I'll need for my garment.
Once you have all your pieces, move on down to the fabric layout part of the pattern. It will tell you how to put the pieces for 45" or 60" fabric. Usually you will have the fabric folded in half lengthwise as you start laying out the pieces. However, sometimes you have to refold to accomodate pieces that are too big, or need to be on a fold. The pattern writers also usually put a different design on the drawing if you're supposed to put the pattern piece upside down. They get paid to do this. Pay attention to what they say - it will be worth it in the long run. Other pieces you might need to cut 2 or 4 of. Once again, read carefully. It should be listed in the fabric layout picture, and written on the actual pattern paper piece.
OK - so for example, this is piece #2 - the Back of Dress A. I am going to cut 1, and I am going to make sure it is on a fold line. See the arrow at the top? I've got to line it up with the fold. This particular piece is for all the sizes included in the pattern. So this is why I use scissors. If I was just making one size, or planned to never use this pattern again, it would be a LOT easier to use a rotary cutter. However I love this pattern and plan to use it often, so I know that I want to use scissors and not cut away some of the other size lines. I suppose if I was bored, I could trace each size onto another piece of pattern paper, and have my own sets - but I don't have time for that.
So - I just pin where they say to pin. See at the corner where I put the pin? Sometimes I get distracted while I'm cutting. I'm sure that never happens to you. haha. To help myself along, I try and pin close to the cutting line for the size I'm making.
As for the cutting - just follow the line! Lift up or fold back the paper where you can if you're trying to save the pattern to use again - or just cut it all off. Either way, cut as precisely as you can. Those little triangles are going to be helpful later on, so make sure when you see triangles pointing in, you make similar snips pointing out. See how I did the double triangle thing? You don't have to be exact about that, just be consistent. My mom sometimes doesn't do the triangles, she just snips a perpendicular line or two about 1/4" long. It's just a way to mark the fabric and to help you line up the pieces later - use whatever way works for you!
Once you think you're done cutting, just do a quick double check that you've cut all the pieces (including interfacing if needed!) and then you'll be good to go for our next step.
Ready to sew yet???!!!
(click here for the rest of the pattern tutorial)
Cutting is probably my least favorite part. So let's buzz through it fast and get to the rest of the fun stuff!!! (Cutting quilts is fun for me, cutting patterns for clothes - not so much.)
Get out all your supplies - fabric, pins, pattern pieces, and a good pair of scissors. I've heard that some people use a rotary cutter. I'll explain later why I still use scissors.
How do you know which pattern pieces to use? Well - you open up the pattern of course. There should be a place that shows all the different pattern pieces included in the envelope. Remember how you picked a "view" that you're going to sew? ("dress A") Find that listing, and notice all the pieces that go with it.Then sort through all the flimsy pattern papers and get the pieces you need. In this particular pattern, some of the pieces are for all sizes, some pieces are for specific sizes. So READ carefully! I then cut out the pieces I'll need and try to fold the rest of the pattern papers back up and shove them in the envelope. That way I don't get (as) confused about which pieces I'll need for my garment.
Once you have all your pieces, move on down to the fabric layout part of the pattern. It will tell you how to put the pieces for 45" or 60" fabric. Usually you will have the fabric folded in half lengthwise as you start laying out the pieces. However, sometimes you have to refold to accomodate pieces that are too big, or need to be on a fold. The pattern writers also usually put a different design on the drawing if you're supposed to put the pattern piece upside down. They get paid to do this. Pay attention to what they say - it will be worth it in the long run. Other pieces you might need to cut 2 or 4 of. Once again, read carefully. It should be listed in the fabric layout picture, and written on the actual pattern paper piece.
OK - so for example, this is piece #2 - the Back of Dress A. I am going to cut 1, and I am going to make sure it is on a fold line. See the arrow at the top? I've got to line it up with the fold. This particular piece is for all the sizes included in the pattern. So this is why I use scissors. If I was just making one size, or planned to never use this pattern again, it would be a LOT easier to use a rotary cutter. However I love this pattern and plan to use it often, so I know that I want to use scissors and not cut away some of the other size lines. I suppose if I was bored, I could trace each size onto another piece of pattern paper, and have my own sets - but I don't have time for that.
So - I just pin where they say to pin. See at the corner where I put the pin? Sometimes I get distracted while I'm cutting. I'm sure that never happens to you. haha. To help myself along, I try and pin close to the cutting line for the size I'm making.
As for the cutting - just follow the line! Lift up or fold back the paper where you can if you're trying to save the pattern to use again - or just cut it all off. Either way, cut as precisely as you can. Those little triangles are going to be helpful later on, so make sure when you see triangles pointing in, you make similar snips pointing out. See how I did the double triangle thing? You don't have to be exact about that, just be consistent. My mom sometimes doesn't do the triangles, she just snips a perpendicular line or two about 1/4" long. It's just a way to mark the fabric and to help you line up the pieces later - use whatever way works for you!Once you think you're done cutting, just do a quick double check that you've cut all the pieces (including interfacing if needed!) and then you'll be good to go for our next step.
Ready to sew yet???!!!
(click here for the rest of the pattern tutorial)
threads...
clothing,
pattern tutorial,
sewing,
tutorial
Monday, May 11
picking the fabric & notions
My favorite part - picking the fabric! YAY!
Well of course you've already inspected the back of the pattern. Did you see underneath the big paragraph is a complex grid.
Once again - make sure you're looking at the right view "Dress A". Make sure you're looking at the right size - and check out the yardage required. This particular dress called for a contrasting fabric too. Check for yardage on interfacing.
Time to browse all the beautiful fabrics. ahhh... let's take a moment....
OK. Now back to business... Before you head up to the cutting counter, read the label on the end of the bolt. Is this fabric appropriate for the pattern? For example, if the pattern says (in that BIG paragraph at the beginning) that it is just for knit fabric, DON'T buy a woven. Trust me, I know from experience. (right mom? ha.)
If you're really nervous about it, you can buy a little extra. However, I have never had a problem being short on fabric. (Quilting, that's another story.)
Next choices - thread and notions. Look at that paragraph on the back of the pattern, and grab what you need. Thread - go a little darker rather than lighter if it's hard to match the fabric color exactly. Buttons - try and stay close to the size listed. If the most ADORABLE buttons are just a little bigger or smaller, it's probably o.k. Just don't go for a 7/8" button when it says 3/8". It just won't fit and will look silly. They picked that size for a reason.
When you get home with your fabric, decide what kind of seamstress you're going to be. Are you going to prewash? Iron? Or just go for it. It's really up to you how particular you want to be. I usually tend to just iron it if it's really wrinkled or not folded in half properly.
Coming up next... layout and cutting!!
(click here for the rest of the pattern tutorial)
Well of course you've already inspected the back of the pattern. Did you see underneath the big paragraph is a complex grid.
Once again - make sure you're looking at the right view "Dress A". Make sure you're looking at the right size - and check out the yardage required. This particular dress called for a contrasting fabric too. Check for yardage on interfacing.
Time to browse all the beautiful fabrics. ahhh... let's take a moment....
OK. Now back to business... Before you head up to the cutting counter, read the label on the end of the bolt. Is this fabric appropriate for the pattern? For example, if the pattern says (in that BIG paragraph at the beginning) that it is just for knit fabric, DON'T buy a woven. Trust me, I know from experience. (right mom? ha.)
If you're really nervous about it, you can buy a little extra. However, I have never had a problem being short on fabric. (Quilting, that's another story.)
Next choices - thread and notions. Look at that paragraph on the back of the pattern, and grab what you need. Thread - go a little darker rather than lighter if it's hard to match the fabric color exactly. Buttons - try and stay close to the size listed. If the most ADORABLE buttons are just a little bigger or smaller, it's probably o.k. Just don't go for a 7/8" button when it says 3/8". It just won't fit and will look silly. They picked that size for a reason.
When you get home with your fabric, decide what kind of seamstress you're going to be. Are you going to prewash? Iron? Or just go for it. It's really up to you how particular you want to be. I usually tend to just iron it if it's really wrinkled or not folded in half properly.Coming up next... layout and cutting!!
(click here for the rest of the pattern tutorial)
threads...
clothing,
pattern tutorial,
sewing,
tutorial
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